Information and tips for Ogliastra on the east coast of Sardinia

Ogliastra, one of the eight provinces of Sardinia, stretches across the east of the island, from the mountainous hinterland of the Gennargentu to the varied coastline. The hinterland of the province is very mountainous and the roads are accordingly winding, often leading through fascinating landscapes with great panoramic views. A paradise for nature and history lovers.

The area between the peaks of Gennargentu and the Tyrrhenian Sea is considered one of the most evocative of the island. The coasts of Ogliastra are unspoilt and mostly wild. Here you will find some of the most enchanting sceneries in the Mediterranean. The region boasts mountainous landscapes, sandy beaches and coves, and turquoise waters. It is not only for bathers, but also for hikers, trekkers and mountain bikers.

The name Ogliastra probably comes from a huge monolith, the Agugliastra, which rises out of the sea north of Santa Maria Navarrese. The province of Ogliastra is the least populated of all the Italian provinces, with just under 59,000 inhabitants and a population density of just 32 inhabitants per square kilometre. It has two provincial capitals, Tortolì on the coast and Lanusei in the hinterland.

The best beaches in Ogliastra

In the north, the varied coastline of about 80 km, with its crystal-clear, turquoise waters, borders the mountains of Punta Onamarra (620 m) and Punta su Civargiu (558 m), while Punta de Sa Cala, with the Torre di Murtas, forms the southern border with the Costa Rei. In between, there are numerous long, flat sandy beaches bordered by high cliffs. Small coves such as Cala Luna, Cala Biriola, Cala Sisine, Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritze in the north are of impressive beauty. In the south there are the beautiful beaches of Tancau, Girasole, Orri, Cea Marina di Barisardo, Cardedu and Coccorrocci.

Caves and stone witnesses of the past

Ogliastra is rich in archaeological treasures, such as rock tombs and tombs of giants (Domus de Janas and Tombe dei Giganti), sacred wells, menhirs and nuraghes, some of which date back to the Neolithic period. Examples include the Bau e Tanca nuraghe near Talana, the numerous nuraghes around Barisardo and along the entire coast.

Those interested in caves can visit the Su Mamuri cave near Osini (about 15 km west of Barisardo). The temperature inside the stalactite cave, one of the largest in Europe at 35 metres high and almost a kilometre long, is a constant 15 degrees, making it an attractive destination, especially in midsummer.

Near Cala Sinise, in the north of Ogliastra, is the cave “Su Miraculu” with its fascinating stalagmites and stalactites. Closer to the coast is the Grotta Fiori del Cristallo. Further south, the Grotta del Fico, which opens onto the sea, is worth a visit: about 800 metres of this cave, discovered in the 1950s, have been explored and speleologists are still investigating other passages. The mouth of the cave is about 7 metres above sea level and can be reached safely by foot.

Breathtaking mountain scenery and unspoilt nature

If you are also interested in Sardinia’s flora and fauna, you can visit the “Sa Portiscra” wildlife reserve in Urzulei in the north. The area is dominated by centuries-old holm oaks and numerous junipers. These forests are home to moufflons, wild boars, foxes, martens and the endangered Sardinian deer. Not far from the reserve is the nuragic village of “Or Murales”, which, with its 100 well-preserved huts, offers a glimpse of a prehistoric culture that remains mysterious to this day. In the south, near the town of Perdasdefogu, there is also the “Bruncu Santoru”, a reserve where the Sardinian deer can be seen, among other forest animals.

Ogliastra is the ideal place for trekking lovers: a walk to Punta La Marmora, the highest point in Sardinia at 1834 metres, among the limestone cliffs of Osini, or in the gorge of Gola Gorroppu in the Supramonte mountains, with its high, white cliffs, one of the deepest gorges in Europe, will give you an idea of Sardinia’s unspoilt and always fascinating, magical nature.

If you want to hike between the mountains and the sea and enjoy wonderful views of the varied coastline of Ogliastra, the area between the Supramonte of Baunei and the Golgo plateau is full of paths that lead to the coast (for example, to Cala Goloritze, Cala Sinise and Cala Mariolu). In this case, it is certainly advisable to take part in a guided excursion, which is offered throughout the year by numerous local cooperatives.

Among the natural beauties of the region are the Scala di San Giorgio, a fascinating rock formation near Osini, and the Olivastri near Santa Maria Navarese, close to the coast. The mountains of Ogliastra can be explored not only on foot or in off-road vehicles, but also on horseback. Such excursions are offered in the areas of Tortoli-Arbatax, Tertenia-Jerzu and Baunei, among others.

Visit the resort of Arbatax

Situated on a peninsula, the port of Arbatax, whose name derives from the Arabic Arba at Ashar (fourteen towers), was founded by fishermen from Genoa. Arbatax is famous not only for its long white sandy beaches to the south, but also for the red porphyry rock called “Rocce Rosse“, which rises out of the sea just in front of the harbour entrance. During the summer, this rock is often the setting for numerous concerts featuring national and international artists.

The airport of Cagliari to the south is about 130 km away and that of Olbia to the north about 160 km.